[BITList] A tale of two paddlers

[M.j. Feltham]

There was discussion earlier on in the year about the WAVERLEY.  Here is a report from someone who sailed in the WAVERLEY and a similar vessel in Germany.

Mike
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> Anyone who fancies a trip on a paddle steamer has a surprising amount of choice these days. From the Mississippi to the Thames, there are a variety of options. This summer I sailed with two which operate sea going excursions, the Freya and the Waverley. They were quite different experiences. 
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> MV Freya was built in 1905 for service from Vlissingen along the Westerschelde. Purchased in 2000 by Adler Schiffe, she now operates cruises from mostly German ports throughout an extended season. Typically cruises last half or all day. 
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> I boarded Freya at Kiel station for a full day Kiel canal cruise. One of the first surprises of Freya was that there were almost no turn up and go passengers. The ship sold out mainly through groups and a few individual passengers pre-booking. 
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> Passengers boarding Freya are given an assigned table in one of the saloons, where meals will be taken. Both upper and main decks contain bars, although tea,coffee, water and juice are free. 
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> The Freya is a beautifully kept vessel, with decor perhaps best described as cosy. Fares are booked to include meals and for both brunch and afternoon tea, a delicious and extensive buffet was available. 
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> Our sailing left precisely on time, and further down the harbour, we sailed with Adler Princess to enter the canal together. The canal itself is a lovely sail, with greenery and occasional interesting towns passed. Freya stopped at Rendsburg to pick up passengers for the return journey. 
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> The food is prepared mostly onboard, and a lovely quick of Freya is that at the appointed hour, a bell sounds and in the forward saloon, a cargo hatch opens and the lift brings up a fully stocked buffet complete with chef and assistants, which then stays in place for the meal. 
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> One thing I loved about Freya was just how spacious she seemed. One could always find a seat on deck, or back at your assigned place, there was always space at the rail. All in all, this was a recommended trip. 
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> My second paddler experience was with the Waverley, on a Tower Bridge to Thames forts cruise. One knows when Waverley is due in port by the line of pensioners with their pre-packed sandwiches and flasks, anoraks and bobble hats. This day was no exception. Waverley was due to sail from Tower Bridge at 10:00 and by 09:15 people were already queuing. The queue was mustered by a bumptious purser, who thankfully relaxed during the day. 
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> Waverley herself was looking magnificent, in top class condition to my untrained eyes. She is however not a vessel about which one could use the term cosy or spacious in my view. Upon boarding, many people head straight to stake out their seats for the day and almost instantly there are no outdoor seats. 
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> We begin the morning in the rather cramped tea bar. Here, pricey and poor quality instant drinks set the flavour for the day's catering. Sailing under Tower bridge is never less than spectacular and in this day we are lucky with Sunshine and a light breeze. The ship has a creditable load, each doing different portions of the day. In the forward bar, a raucous group of London cabbies is making full use of the beer availability. At most times, there is a queue for the bar the length of the saloon, but only one barman, even though 2 other staff spend much time going in and out of the place. 
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> Around noon, there are several announcements imploring passengers not eating to leave the dining room and make way for those who want to eat. We intend to buy lunch but with nowhere to sit, we wait until the approach to Southend. When we do get lunch, the daily options look distinctly unappetising, with luminous chicken, stodgy hotpot of fish and chips. Instead I go for soup and a pre-packaged sandwich, vowing instead to have the curry on the return. 
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> Leaving Southend, we head out to the Thames Forts, which are an interesting set of things to see. What puzzles me though is that we only go to two of the three, despite the third being only a few miles away. I assume we perhaps don't have time but then we instead spend an hour or so circling anchored shipping before arriving at Southend much earlier than expected. Commentary is provided by a local guide which was informative. 
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> On the return journey, those who hit the pubs in Southend re-board and add to the ambience. It is fair to say quite a few people worse for wear, and rather loud are dropped off at the points along the Thames. 
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> Dinner is served from 5-7:30 and we choose to dine around 6. Options are Meatballs, Curry, soup, fish and Chips. I ask for curry and rice - sorry no rice, were not cooking any more (with 90 mins of service to go). What can I have it with then? Chips. Same for the Meatballs. This is the kind of catering and service that would be at home in a 1970s pub, not modern day Britain. 
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> One of our party was reflecting upon whether Waverley would do well to go upmarket, limit the crowds, massively improve the food and service etc. They say 'but fares would have to rise' and I point out that a crowded, downmarket day on Waverley is already more expensive than cosy comfort on German crewed Freya, an older ship. A friend once reminded me that Waverley was but for the masses, for a 'working class' day out, and as such she remains authentic to that role in decor, service, crowds and style. The trouble is in that period tastes and expectations have moved on. I would go back on the Freya in a flash, but it will be a few years before I feel the need to set foot on Waverley again, despite having enjoyed a day at sea. 
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