[BITList] Calcutta Heritage on foot

[John Feltham]

From another List….


26th May 2013


Heritage, on foot


I had participated in the Jane Jacobs Walk- inspired The Telegraph Explore Calcutta Walks, held in association with Calcutta Walks on May 4. I chose the East Calcutta Wetlands to explore and enjoyed the experience.

Enthused by that walk, I decided to design my own Calcutta walk, for the best way to know your city — that William Dalrymple describes in White Mughals as " the richest, largest and most elegant colonial city in India" — is on foot.

Go to the crossing of Brabourne Road and Canning Street (Biplabi Rashbehari Bose Road) for a glimpse of the city's heritage.

     
The stretch is busy, but towering above the chaos are the twin minarets of the Portuguese Church and the red and yellow clock tower of Magen David Synagogue.

The church, built in 1799, is dedicated to Rosary Virgin Mary. Its interiors are even more spectacular, with long corridors leading to a beautiful altar flanked by intricate stained- glass windows. The walls are lined with confession boxes and statues of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and various other Biblical characters, complete with fairies and angles.

The main draw of the church are the 14 Cross Station of Christ, depicting his final journey.

    

Magen David Synagogue is one of the two remaining places of worship for the fast dwindling Jewish community in the city. The entrance is encroached upon and one needs permission and ideally a guide from Nahoum's in New Market to visit the synagogue.

Services at the synagogue have stopped years ago but the interiors are astonishingly well maintained. The chequered marble floor, gleaming chandeliers and stained- glass windows create a stunning atmosphere. The altar of the synagogue is crowned with an apse (half dome) studded with stars, representing heaven. The large plaque in the middle contains the Ten Commandments.

Not visible from the crossing is the Armenian Church, the oldest Christian church in the city. Located off Brabourne Road, this simple but elegant church is definitely a gem.

   

The Church compound houses a graveyard where lie the mortal remains of an Armenian lady, Razabeebeh. She died in 1630, long before the days of Job Charnock.

Regular Sunday service is held here, but the church is in full bloom around January 6, when the Armenians celebrate Christmas.

Rangan Dutta Pictures by author - Portuguese Church - Gravestone at Armenian Church
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