[BITList] For those who like the stuff.

[John Feltham]

***Wall Street Journal  item***

HALF FULL  DECEMBER 17, 2011

Do the Rye Thing

America's original whiskey has become its cult spirit 

By KEVIN SINTUMUANG

 

F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal
Think of rye as bourbon's edgier cousin.

You order an Old Fashioned. The bartender asks, "What kind of bourbon?" You say, "Bourbon?" mildly offended, as if Pandora started playing Coldplay when you typed in "Radiohead." No, no, no. You'd prefer something with more backbone and boldness. But, you know, refined and complex, too. You ask, "Got any rye?"

If you've had this kind of exchange, congratulations, you are a fellow member of the Rye Whiskey Fan Club. I raise my glass of Van Winkle Family Reserve to you. If not, then you really must join the group—or, let's be honest, cult. Because once you become indoctrinated—it just takes a sip—leaving may require the work of a deprogrammer. Seriously. People go bananas over this stuff. What other whiskey suffers periodical shortages because cases are snatched up before they're even made? Why do recently released bottles quickly find their way onto eBay at enormously inflated prices as if they were this season's must-have Christmas toy? Why do I habitually pop into random liquor stores to see if, on the off chance, they have my favorite rare bottle collecting dust somewhere?

The explanation for the rabid following is stupid simple: Rye is damn good stuff. Think of it as bourbon's edgier cousin. Where bourbon is primarily made of corn, giving the whiskey a smooth and sweet flavor profile, rye is at least 51% of its namesake grain, lending it a spicier, fuller bodied, angular taste. If you like bourbon, but want to try something with more muscle, you need to get yourself some rye.

Although it's America's first whiskey—George Washington distilled it and bottles were as good as cash in 18th-century Pennsylvania—rye steadily fell out of popularity after Prohibition. It wasn't until the early 2000s that it became repopularized thanks mostly to craft bartenders who liked rye's robust flavors in cocktails, as well as its historical accuracy—rye was the original whiskey in classics like the Manhattan and the Sazerac.

During rye's recent rediscovery, micro-distillers from coast to coast jumped on the bandwagon and those whiskeys are just starting to reach maturity, and store shelves. Many are excellent, so don't expect them to stay there for long. Still, despite the fandom, rye sales are a drop in the bucket compared to those of bourbon, which is generally easier and cheaper to produce. While Wild Turkey and Bulleit make great ryes that are widely available, the most coveted ones, like those gathered here, seem to be perpetually short at hand. But the scarcity and the hunt is just part of the allure. A great bottle of rye isn't just a great bottle of rye—it's both trophy and secret handshake rolled into one.

—Kevin Sintumuang


Ryan & Wood Straight Rye

While Ryan & Wood, a new distillery in Gloucester, Mass., currently makes gin, vodka and rum, this rye was the first thing to find its way into a barrel when the company was conceived four years ago. It's a stellar debut effort—the nose is filled with fresh, grassy notes, and the finish lingers with smoke and leather. It's only available in Massachusetts at the moment, but online distribution may happen soon. 43% ABV, $30

Templeton Rye

You might read the backstory of this whiskey—the company claims it's a Prohibition-era recipe and was Al Capone's favorite—and think this is just marketing-driven hooch, but that's far from true. Templeton is a well-balanced rye that's perfect for the holidays. It has a nose of mint and pine and delivers smooth butterscotch and allspice. A true winter warmer. Mr. Capone apparently had very good taste. 40% ABV, $40

Jefferson's Straight Rye

Whiskey nerds know McLain & Kyne, the company behind Jefferson's, more for its covetable small-batch bourbons. This 100% straight rye, which has been aged for 10 years, is worth seeking out as well. It's complex stuff—spice and cinnamon give way to a toffee-like finish with just a hint of mint. 47% ABV, $50

Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye

All of the bourbons that come out of the Old Rip Van Winkle distillery deserve the legendary status they hold. Their rye does too. It's easily one of my favorite spirits—rich and creamy, the Family Reserve lures you in with its raisin nose and then bowls you over with a tidal wave of dried fig, cured cherries and booming wood and rye flavors that seem to go on forever. Finding a bottle takes maniacal persistence. Julian Van Winkle, president of the company, says smaller, less-trafficked shops are the best places to snag one. 40% ABV, $60

Lion's Pride Organic Rye

This is no ordinary rye, because it doesn't come from an ordinary distillery. All of Koval's barrels and organic grains are sourced in the Midwest and the mashing, distilling and aging of their single-grain spirits is done in Chicago. Despite being 100% rye grain, this whiskey is fresh and light (it's aged less than two years) with a maple-y, candy corn entry and a kiss of spice on the finish. 40% ABV, $40

Leopold's Maryland Style Rye

Pre-Prohibition, there were two styles of rye whiskeys: the dry and spicy Pennsylvania, also called Monongahela, which is similar to most of the rye we drink today, and Maryland, a more fragrant and fruit-forward cousin. This recreation of that long-lost style is fresher and much less oaky than what you may be used to. While there's still spice—it is a rye, after all—it's laced with delicate dark chocolate and berry notes. 43% ABV, $45

Michter's 25-Year-Old Single Barrel Rye

When the Michter's brand was revived in the late '90s, the founders knew they wanted a super-aged, premium rye even before they started to make their own whiskey, so they procured several barrels that were made in the '80s. This is the phenomenal result. It has a rich amber color that gives off an ancient glow and envelopes your tongue in tons of spice and rich, crystalized dried fruit. Once or twice a year, 150 bottles are released. If you can't find it (or don't want to shell out $400), go with the earthy Michter's 10-Year-Old Rye for $100. 58.7% ABV, $400

High West Double Rye!

Park City, Utah's High West distillery has a reputation for innovative bottlings. Double Rye!, as the name implies, is a blend of 16-year-old and two-year-old ryes. A gentle, bourbon-like sweetness greets you, but then a raucous spice barges in, and before you know it, you're back for more. It wouldn't be wrong to try this in a Manhattan. 46% ABV, $35

 



 
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